I was wondering the side streets of lower Manhattan, headed into the financial disctrict when I stumbled across LesHalles. One of many old school French restaurants in New York City. What sets this one apart is a former chef. Tony lead the kitchen for a decade, dealing with his personal demons, writing a couple of crime novels and then a book about life in a restaurant kitchen, "Kitchen Confidential." That book launched Anthony Bourdain as a celebrity. First is was interviews about the book, and life in the back of the house, then TV came calling. A Cooks Tour was quickly followed by No Reservations, and now Parts Unknown. I love his writing style, a mix of exploring the local culture and politics through the lens of local food and drink. I had already had lunch when I came across LesHalles, I will have to go back again.
We ate there when he was on the stoves; not stupendous, but very satisfying straight-ahead bistro fare. We also saw him speak at a book signing years later;he's the most charismatic guy going. A woman in the audience thanked him for inducing her to return to meat after years as a vegetarian. He said, "My work on this planet is now done."
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