My first visit to France as in January 1991. A few days in Paris. I have one vivid memory from that trip. Being turned away at the sidewalk in front of Maxim's based on what I was wearing. It was winter, I was wearing jeans, hiking boots, a wool sweater and a leather jacket, the doorman literally stuffed me back in the taxi. Their loss, we went around the corner, up a narrow street and had an incredible lunch in a tiny restaurant.
A few years later we had Christmas dinner on the Eiffel Tower. We didn't reservations and I out pouted the Maitre D. He didn't say no, and I just stood there until one of the servers said, "this way."
My Sweet Bear and I spent a week in a Gite in Normandy. We went to see the Abbey de Hambye, the ruins of an abbey nearby. We had parked just around the corner from a restaurant, and it was lunch time when we were ready to leave, so we thought, why not give it a try. Oh my were we in for a treat at Auberge de l'Abbaye. The food and service were pure artistry, someplace I have photos of the food, I don't often take photos of what we are served, this was really special. When you get a chance, go there, it is worth the effort.
To really understand French food culture get off of the beaten path. Nearly every village has a small local restaurant. Go with the Plat de Jour, the daily special. This is what the chef or cook, selected as fresh, seasonal, and most likely local. It is the best food, and often the best value. I did a solo trip to Normandy, one lunch I stopped in a small town, there were several trucks from EDF, the electric company parked out front. Always a good idea to try where the locals flock to. I was a little unsure, my French is very basic, and this was very rural. I was made welcome, ordered the special of the day, and it was so wonderful. The pear tart at the end was heavenly.
On another trip we were driving along the coast on our way to St Malo and stopped in a small village, along the coast with vast shellfish beds along the harbour. Order the seafood tower, at least once in your life, I'd like to do that again.
A couple of times in France we have rented Gites, these are country vacation rentals, most of them are on farms. One was a converted barn, the second one was an apartment in a massive stone farmhouse. Gites have a kitchen, and that made it possible to shop local and cook.
I could go on and on about food in France, but I would sooner go back.
Sounds like a good idea, eating one’s way across the country.
ReplyDeleteYou do know how to enjoy a meal in Spain!
DeleteI can imagine how good the food was, and I am sure still is. I guess in smaller places, it is not expensive either.
ReplyDeleteI should go do research on prices in big cities and small towns.
DeleteYou're right about going off the beaten track. The best pasta I've had in my life was at a nondescript, pokey little restaurant off the main tourist drag in one of the small villages of Cinque Terre, Italy.
ReplyDeleteAnd the worst lasagna I have ever had, was in the shadow of the Colosseum, the waiter said his grandmother would slap the chef.
DeleteYears ago we tried to get into a very posh Italian restaurant in San Francisco but were turned away. As we stood on the sidewalk and debated where to go the Maitre D came outside, pointed to a sign down the hill and said, "That's the second best Italian place in The City. I called ahead and they're expecting you."
ReplyDeleteAnd it was good..
I had a wonderful dinner at The Stinking Rose in the Italian district in San Francisco, garlic is the feature of the house.
DeleteWould that all maitre d's were so accommodating. Last year in London, we were to meet friends at one of the currently trendy places. We got there early and the maitre was an officious idiot. When our friends arrived we went to a place around the corner which turned out to be the oldest pub in London, and we had a rollicking and relaxing good time.
DeleteAnd I had a delicious fish pie.
DeleteThat all sounds so delicious. I've found the same thing. The big well known places are okay but the little unknown places are the best.
ReplyDeleteThere are some real gems out there.
DeleteAnd then there's Julia Child's first taste of sole meuniere!
ReplyDeleteFood is a big part of the travel experience and finding the hidden gems really ups the game.
ReplyDeleteI might check out chatgpt for a French dish, what we have in the fridge.
ReplyDeleteThat sounds amazing! Thank you so much for sharing, and warm greetings from Montreal, Canada.
ReplyDelete